6 Day of Christmas Lights, Alps
& Bernina Express
Hi there! This guide is for travelers who value clear, structured itineraries. I’ve gathered everything for a 6-day journey through Zurich, Lucerne, Bern, and New Year’s Eve in Varese.
Enjoy Christmas lights, alpine views, and one spectacular day on the Bernina Express. This itinerary blends festive city breaks with a bucket-list train ride across the Alps, ending with New Year’s Eve in a historic lakeside castle in Varese.
Itinerary at a Glance
- Zurich festive lights and Old-town
- Lucerne: lakeside views and alpine scenery
- Bern: UNESCO‑listed old town with medieval streets and cozy cafés
- Bernina Express: one spectacular day across the Alps
- Sondrio: charming and quiet Alpine town
- Varese: New Year’s Eve in a historic lakeside castle, optional Lugano day trip
Explore the compact Old Town and the festive downtown: twinkling decorations, boutique windows and cozy cafés. It’s ideal for last‑minute holiday, shopping and golden‑hour photos.
Where to stay:
With several train trips ahead, staying close to the station is the easiest choice. We stayed at the Mercure Zurich City, a few stops from the main station and caught direct train to Churfrom our local stop Altstetten.
Where to buy tickets: at the ticket terminals at each station. Timetable available at sbb.ch/en
Lucerne
Day trip, 40 min by train from Zurich. Peaceful, picturesque and perfect for easing into the trip. Wander the quiet streets, admire the preserved wooden bridges and lakeside promenades.
Where to eat:
Enjoy a meal at Des Alpes Hotel's Restaurant, located by the water with beautiful Reuss River and the Lake.
Bern
A UNESCO World Heritage city with an atmospheric medieval core. 1 hour away from Zurich by train. We rode up to the viewpoint above the old town for a sweeping panorama. In winter the landscape feels calm and clear; in summer it’s lush and bright. Either way, the views are worth the climb + felt like the right cardio prep before a hearty fondue tasting :)
Where to eat:
Kramer Restaurant - famous for its traditional Swiss cheese fondue and welcoming
Bernina Express: A Panoramic
Dream Ride
(Chur, Switzerland → Tirano, Italy)
Tickets & Reservations
Seats on this scenic train are popular and limited. Book early to secure a window pair.
Official booking: Rhaetian Railway (RhB) Seat reservation is mandatory for the panoramic Bernina Express coaches. Tickets generally open far in advance; we reserved on Oct 18 for a Dec 29 departure and only a few seats were left.
Timetable & Duration
Typical departures from Chur are in the morning and early afternoon ( 08:17 & 13:28).
The full journey one way takes about 4 hours, crossing UNESCO‑listed Albula and Bernina lines. Round-trip is also possible. Route from St Moritz to Tirano is also available, but it's shorter and we wanted to get full experience and enjoy this ride.
Classes & Best Seats
1st Class offers more spacious seating and tall panoramic windows; Price ~113 CHF. Our seats (41/42) had some of the best views + there are tables-for-two. Drinks and snacks could be ordered, and every passenger received a complimentary Lindt chocolate box.
2nd Class has slightly narrower seats with the same great views but windows are not that tall. Price ~66 CHF. Aim for a window pair on the right‑hand side when heading Chur → Tirano for classic highlights early in the journey.
Route Highlights (north → south)
- Landwasser Viaduct - the signature curved viaduct of the Albula line.
- Albula spiral tunnels - elegant loops that gain altitude smoothly.
- Ospizio Bernina (2,253 m) - the high point near Lago Bianco and icy landscapes.
- Alp Grüm & Palü Glacier - dramatic glacier and valley views.
- Brusio Circular Viaduct - a photogenic stone spiral just before Tirano.
Photography Tips
In the early morning the cabin lights are still on. For a reflection-free photo, grab a spot and shoot through the small opening windows in vestibules (1 class). In winter, first light on snowy sunny peaks is gorgeous.
Tirano -> Sondrio
At the same station we arrived by Bernina Express we bought onward tickets to Sondrio - compact Alpine town with mountain views and a relaxed pace. The perfect place to recharge and soak in the emotions after the train journey.
Distance: ~30 km (20–25 minutes by regional train). Right after leaving Tirano, the train follows the Valtellina valley along the Adda River.
Tip: some tickets in Italy needs to be validated at the station or online
Where to stay:
Hotel Europa - cozy, classic interiors in the center; our room overlooked a lively mountain river.
Sondrio -> Varese
The ride to Varese takes about 1.5–2 hours. Much of the route skirts Lake Como and smaller lakes - sit by the window!
Where to stay:
Historic Palace Grand Hotel Varese, perched on a hill above the city with panoramic views of the lake and mountain. Specifically this hotel was one of the reason staying at Varese.
The lobby bar near the grand staircase (at the photo below) is perfect for a pre‑dinner drink; armchairs and small tables make it feel like an old‑world salon.
We were offered a New Year’s banquet (~€170 per person): multiple courses, excellent wine, live music and fireworks at midnight - a festive, elegant way to ring in the year.
Where to go:
- Sacro Monte di Varese (UNESCO) - a historic devotional path with chapels and hilltop views.
- Lake promenades - easy strolls and sunset photos.
- Lugano is only about 1 hour by train.
Where to buy tickets:
Trenord (Lombardy railway) for schedules and tickets. You can also validate tickets in the App.
From the Varese station straight train to Malpensa Airport (about 45 min) and to Milano Centrale (about 1h).